Types of Pearls

Size: Size speaks for itself; larger simply is more valuable, all other things being equal.

Shape: Round is the rarest and is the most valuable. After that, off-round, oval, drop, buttons, coins, freeform are an example of the progression of the shape. The further from round the lower the value.

GIA classifies shapes into 3 categories: spherical, symmetrical & baroque.

Round	Symmetrical	Baroque

• Spherical pearls-- round or near round
• Symmetrical--pearls that look the same on each side if you divided them in half.
• Baroque--Irregularly shaped pearls such as crosses & sticks.

Color: White is the universal color. In Asia & the USA pink-white is the ultimate. Other favored natural colors are pink, golden pink, lavender, purple, black, etc. Many pearls are enhanced with dyes, irradiation and other treatments. Dyed pearls have a lesser value than those with natural colors.

GIA classifies pearl color as having 3 characteristics:

• Body color--The dominant overall color of a pearl.
• Overtone--One or more translucent colors that appear over a pearl's body color.
• Orient--Iridescent, rainbow colors shimmering on or just below a pearl's surface.

Luster: This is the most important quality in evaluating the beauty of a pearl. The iridescence, the life of the pearl, the shimmer, glow, and the luminosity of the pearl all come together here. Luster is closely related to orient.

GIA has 4 categories for luster:

• Excellent reflections are bright and pinpoint sharp
• Good reflections are bright but not as sharp, slightly matte finish
• Fair reflections are hazy and blurred
• Poor reflections are diffused and appear chalky and dull

Surface quality: Evenness of the surface, with no undulating undercurrents to distract the eye.

GIA classifies this into 4 categories:

• Clean: Virtually blemish free
• Lightly Blemished: Minor surface irregularities
• Moderately Blemished: Noticeable surface irregularities
• Heavily Blemished: Obvious surface irregularities

Nacre quality: Interrelated with the other two. Thickness & quality of nacre are selling points for fresh water pearls. The quality ranges from acceptable to chalky.

Matching: A brilliant matching pair is more difficult find than a single gem. Look for overall uniformity in color, shape, finish etc. in a strand or suite.

Uniqueness: This can be any unusual combination of the forgoing factors.

Provenance: Previous ownership, from fame to notoriety enhances the value of a pearl. It is the legacy of the pearls detailing its journey from the past to the present. Provenance is related to Branding.

Acknowledgments

The page is presented courtesy of Betty Sue King. Please visit King's Ransom, The Pearl Goddess, and tell her you found her at Jewels by Mala.

Bibliography

Akamatsu, Shigeru, Zansheng, Li Tajima, Moses, Thomas M., & Scarratt, Kenneth, "The Current Status of Chinese Freshwater Cultured Pearls", pp.96-113, Gems & Gemology, Summer 2001, Volume XXXVII. GIA, Carlsbad, CA 92008

GIA Course on Pearls, Carlsbad, CA 92008, 1999

Joyce, Kristin & Addison, Shellei, Pearls, Ornament & Obsession, Simon & Schuster, New York, NY 10020, 1999

Landman, Neil H., Mikkelsen, Paula M., Bieler, Rudiger & Bronson, Bennet, Pearls: A Natural History, Harry N Abrams, Inc. in association with The American Museum of Natural History & The Field Museum, New York, NY, 2001